Or is it? The famous quotation from Gertrude Stein doesn’t quite stand up when applied to Rosé wines today. A good rosé has a lot to offer says Elizabeth Gabay.
Rosé has had plenty of in-fashion moments throughout the centuries, with references from the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries extolling the beautiful colours of these lighter red wines, comparing them to jewels, sunsets and even, somewhat less romantically, to the eye of a dying partridge — oeil de perdrix. The fashion for these lighter wines waned during the 19th century when big, deep, dark reds became the trend. A pink revival occurred after the second world war, especially in America, when pretty, girly-pink, off-dry or bubbles were all the rage.
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