Cure, fine Irish cuisine at its best in Singapore

Andrew Walsh, chef-owner of Michelin-starred Cure, is passionate about his Irish heritage

Chef Andrew Walsh draws on his Irish roots to create his own brand of Nua Irish Cuisine at Cure restaurant

Most people know Irish cuisine — if at all — as a stout staple of potatoes and Guinness beer. Count me in the mix. That is, till I experienced Cure.

Located in the restaurant district of Keong Saik Road in Singapore, Cure brings you a curated menu of Nua Irish cuisine. (Nua is Gaelic for Irish and also means ‘new’ in modern Irish). Here,chef-owner Andrew Walsh elevates national dishes with exceptional Irish produce, reimagining and reinventing them, while leaving behind any preconceived notion of Irish grub.

Spiced consommé bottled in a crystal decanter and served with Seven Tails brandy as a health tonic

“Nua represents the evolution of my own brand of cuisine. My Irish heritage and the food of my childhood not only take centre stage but are coupled with culinary techniques and global influences that have been refined over my career,” says Walsh.

Hailing from Mayo County, Ireland, Walsh earned his stripes with Restaurateur and Chef Jason Atherton in London and came to Singapore to open another Atherton restaurant before branching off on his own in 2015 to create Cure and winning his Michelin star.

“Yearning for a taste of home aside, I felt it was about time I presented my culture in the best way I knew how, as a grand showcase of all that Ireland has to offer, from its produce and cuisine to its history in one menu.”

Soda, stout & treacle bread: The unique dishes served at Cure are an elevated version of traditional Irish fare presented

The chef starts you off with a warm soda, stout and treacle bread washed with a glaze of Guinness and served with a generous dollop of bacon butter. To drive home the Irish point, it comes with a shot glass of Guinness stout. His riff on his childhood favourite, Tayto cheese and onion chips, (a homegrown brand) is a winner. Presented on a disc plate with the Tayto retro label, the bites are pillowy, pakora-like balls of potato and parmesan cheese garnished with crispy garlic, shallot, and spring onion.

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Yet another entrée is inspired by Colcannon — a traditional Irish dish of mashed potatoes with cabbage. Walsh transforms this dinner staple into a silken purée of potatoes with Irish Gubbeen cheese from County Cork. He dresses it up some more with hay oil, spring onions and a heaped dollop of superior N25 sturgeon caviar. The island nation’s lengthy coastlines offer a bounty of some of the world’s most coveted seafood. Gallaghar oysters, Irish brown crab, blue mussels, and Queen scallops, feature seasonally in the seafood courses.

The mains from the Winter menu are Walsh’s artistic take on the Silver Hill farm duck, considered the Wagyu equivalent of duck, laid out in different renditions on an evocative and sensory gastro board. My favourites were the Duck and Cep Mushroom Sausage and the Duck Wing, 5 Spice Lollipop and Jus. Other diners might like the Duck Confit Leg and Beetroot Tart and Duck Liver and Cinnamon Brulée. The pièce de résistance is the Duck bone signature spiced consommé, a prized elixir bottled in a crystal decanter and served with Seven Tails brandy, as a health tonic.

Cure’s vibe is unstuffy and unpretentious, with a double-sided open kitchen to witness the team at work. The walls are rendered in warmer tones of moss green and indigo and adorned with kitschy artwork which adds to the whimsical, inviting atmosphere that showcases Walsh’s new Irish cuisine at its best.

Colcannon potato mash, Gubeen cheese & caviar
Oyster served with cider & horseradish
Porridge of Sea Urchin with blue cheese